September 18, 2009

Animals

Domesticated animals are part of the ecology of the road, and can sometimes cause traffic jams as they cross.

Pakistanis are Muslims (for the most part) and so they eat beef, but they also consume milk. You see guys on motorcycles with old-fashionned metal canisters driving around. Here is a guy driving his cows (notice the short round horns on the black one):
Between Hyderabad and Sukkur, you're crossing what's essentially a giant desert oasis (more pictures of that elsewhere). And the desert, there are camels, or in fact, dromedaries.


Road danger

The road is dangerous. Not because there is anybody out there to get you (if there is, I didn't see them), but rather because people tend to drive recklessly and at high speed. Vehicles are often overloaded and weave continuously, trying to go forward as quickly as possible. Sometimes, accidents happen (notice the decorated bumper)...

Overloading is a bit of a national sport (right after cricket of course)
And it can be done with either goods or people...
This car is driving about 60-70 km/hr (the one with the people standing)
Four people on a motorbike, and no helmet in sight.

Back from Sukkur

I visited Sukkur, in northern Sindh province, as part of my trip here. I was taken around the town and somewhat astonished by what I saw, but have few pictures to show as my camera malfunctioned once I got there.

Instead, since I drove there from Karachi (8 hours), I have some pictures from the road, where the buses, trucks, private vehicles, and animals live in an incredible and somewhat precarious high speed equilibrium. The road itself will soon be improved, and the scenery was interesting. Unfortunately, most pictures are taken from a moving car and through windows, and so they are not very good, but they illustrate the journey sufficiently.

The trucks that seem to ferry an infinite variety of goods among the highway are colorful and beautifully and intricately decorated. This one is from the toll in Sukkur. Note that the entire truck is decorated, including the bumper.

Another truck along the road in the irrigated part of the Indus plain. Note the motorcycles on the highway.
Another truck
The peacock (or is it a partridge) is a common symbol. Perhaps it has some religious or national significance, but I am not aware of it. Note the decorations down to road level...
Some trucks are decorated with human figures.

Apparently, even the interior of the trucks is decorated, so that they are still stunning when they are empty.
A nice side view of a heavily loaded, and completely decordate truck, including the cab.
More peacocks/partridges.

September 15, 2009

From Karachi

I am in Pakistan for a short trip . I have not had much of an opportunity to take pictures, but I have already been to Lahore and Karachi.

Lahore seems like a fairly peaceful city, and in the nice parts, is extremely leafy and clean. Old trees line the roads, which are in good condition. Our friends welcomed me in their home in the suburbs, where an amazing collection of kitchy developments has been laid to house the professional masses. The city itself has fairly low density. I will try to take pictures when I return later in the week.

This is a picture of the entrance to a development in suburban Lahore. Not far from this is something called Trafalgar Sq, I'll let you guess what it looks like...

Besides the brightly colored buses and the occasional donkey cart, there is nothing out of the ordinary about either Lahore or Karachi. There is the same nice villas, the same decrepit buildings, same beggards, bicycles, and tuk-tuks, same Range Rovers, servants, and armed guards, etc... that you might expect in similar cities around the world. Once thing that is amazing about both places, though, is the shear size: Karachi has 14M people (at least)...

People here are incredibly friendly and business driven. They all mention how bad Pakistan's reputation is around the world and want everyone to know that it's undeserved. Frankly, with what I've seen so far, I agree. I was invited to iftar to break fast, and met some very nice, highly cultivated and intelligent individuals. Of course, there is the occasional anti-zionist diatribe, and the jabs at the US and India, all within the confines of polite discourse and utmost respect for one's guest (that would be me).

Oh, and one more thing, once you have been to Lahore and Karachi, you know why NYC cabbies drive like they do...

July 29, 2009

More Belgrade

At night, the crowds are out in the pedestrian strees outside my hotel. Apparently, there are even more people when it's not vacation time.
The old castle from a boat restaurant on at the confluence of the Sava and Danube.
Decrepit apartment building on Parliament Sq.
Parliament. Clearly, the Serbs are not afraid of car bombs, since you can park you car right under the windows of the parliament. There is also no visible security - in fact, you don't see any police to speak of anywhere in the streets.
Another church
A theater/museum of some sort (frankly I have not idea what the building is but I thought it was cool)

July 28, 2009

Belgrade

I am in Belgrade for another work assignment. The city is suprisingly good looking without too many communist or war scars. The site, at the confluence of two major rivers (Sava and Danube), is quite stunning, and it's no wonder that it's been occupied since before the Romans showed up.

Without further ado, some photos.

There are some nice pedestrian streets in the center, near my hotel.

Down some streets, you can see interesting mixes of architecture. Is this synchretic urban planning?

My hotel, rather communist and drab looking, but actually passable.
The confluence of the two rivers is a nice sight. On the hill from which the picture is a taken is an old fort.
Part of the old fort.
More parts of the old fort.


Oh, to live in a world that's not ruled by lawyers and the fear of liability!

A church (duh).
More of the fort, with some nice yellow flowers.
A weird looking building in the distance, and another one nearby. The mix of architectures in this city is really something.
Someone who feels very strongly about Kosovo has tagged this all over town. Unfortunately, I can't tell what they are for or against (though the reference to 1389 makes me think they don't like Kosovo's independence).

March 20, 2009

Low-income areas of Lilongwe

My work sometimes takes me to low-income areas (also called informal settlements, or slums). I have been to slums in various countries in Africa, and it's almost always been a rather crowded and invariably filthy experience. In general, people live in shacks built from recovered materials, and the streets are strewn with garbage - sometimes even human waste.

One of major problem is the absence of street grid which precludes land and home ownership and the provision of services (such as electricity, water, sewerage, waste collection, etc...). This makes sense: how can you provide services who people without a legal claim to their land - you'd be acting without a mandate, and essentially validating their illegal occupation of the public or private land on which the slum has sprung. "Sprung" is the wrong word here, as some of these places have been in place for decades...

In Malawi, this rigid vision of things seems to, thankfully in many ways, be a foreign concept. The low income areas that I visited have low density, and they benefit from some services: electricy and water kiosks, such as the one below.

One of the most pleasant surprises this particular LIA (low income area) was the absence of waste in the streets, the teeming economic activity, and the omnipresence of agricultural land uses.

Woman doing laundry with water from the kiosk. Water is purchased at 2.5 Kwacha for 20liters (or about 125 Kw, 0.8USD per cubic meter), which is significantly more expensive than pipe water delivered to the home (about 54 Kwacha, or 1/3 of a USD per cubic meter). On the other hand, slum dwellers control their water use both because they have to get it by hand (exhausting) and because they have limited cash on a daily basis. They would not be able to afford paying the monthly bill because they could never retain the cash long enough to pay the bill in full at once. In a perverse way, they are better off without a permanent home connection...
Children always love it when azungu (white men in Chichewa) show up.


It's the rainy season, and this girl is wise to carry protection...

A bar in front of a corn field.A coffin shop with some lumber in front of it.

A woman loading a child on her back in front of some bicycles used for public transport. The open space in the back is not part of the low-income area, obviously.
A few stores in the LIA. This one sells goods and telephone calls and scratch cards.

This one sells sundry goods. Note the pumpkin patch immediately behind it and the space between buildings. If you've ever been to a Brasilian favela or to a slum in Nairobi, you'll know why this is unusual.
There are also workshops in the LIA. This one repairs TV sets and electronics.
This one fixes bicycles, which is a major mode of transport despite the rains. Again, note the open space and absence of garbage.
A corn field and some pumpkins for sale, smack in the middle of the LIA. No garbage.

An example of some houses.
Another house with a cornfield next to it.
All in all, this is not so different from the non-urban villages that I have seen, and radically different from all other slums that I've ever been to. That said, I am told that there are other, more crowded, slums in Blantyre and in other places in Lilongwe.

God is everywhere...

A tyre recycling "plant", next to the hand of God car wrecking service.

Elsewhere in town, somebody is worried about a shortage of nurses.